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«HAIR EXTENSION divality.com Content Introduction.. 3 Global Demand.. 4 US Market.. 5 UK Market.. 8 South Africa Market.. 14 Hair Extensions ...»

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A stylist is finishing off a head of dramatic, tumbling curls for Bianca Gascoigne, a glamour model and reality TV contestant. With her thick, false lashes emphasising her wideset eyes, the cascade of hair makes her look like a Disney drawing. Laughing, she agrees she likes to look like "a princess": "Hair extensions make you feel glamorous," she says, explaining she first started wearing clip-in fake hair as a teenager, keen to copy celebrities such as Christina Aguilera. Now, she says, everyone she knows has them.

Not for the chef using it to get the perfect pizza crust, or the fashion designer charging up to £20,000 for clothes created using human hair. Certainly not for the hairdresser charging up to £2,500 for extensions.

http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2012/oct/28/hair-extension-global-trade-secrets Last year alone nearly £15m worth of treated human hair - it has been washed and sometimes dyed - was imported into the UK, according to Customs and Excise. It comes mainly from India, China and Europe. On top of that almost £10m worth of wigs, false beards, eyebrows and eyelashes made from the stuff were also imported. Those in the trade estimate the hair extension industry alone is worth £60m in this country, although there are no official figures.

When it comes to our tresses, the rarest and most expensive is natural blonde hair, says Des Tobin, a professor of cell biology at Bradford University, who has studied hair and the trade.

"About 90% of the world's population has dark brown hair," he says. "It's actually really hard to get natural, adult hair that is blonde. The rarity of hair colour will dictate the price. Blonde hair can cost up to three times as much as dark hair."7 European hair, which tends to be finer and so easier to work with, is more sought after in the UK. The price for 100g of blonde, European hair is about £1,000.

From The Only Way is Essex to newly-vampiric Bella in Twilight, the bouffs on our screens are growing before our eyes. And like any fashionable trend, we can’t get enough of the Cheryl Cole voluminous hairstyle, so it’s no surprise that hair extensions are here to stay.

The UK is now the third largest importer of human hair in the world, with £38 million worth entering the country in 2011 and 70% market growth in the last 5 years. As we http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/8753698.stm enter the Christmas party season, salons all over the UK are heaving with women seeking full, luscious locks with the help of extensions.

In 2011, it the Tirumla Temple in India reportedly made 2000m Rupees (more than £22m) from auctioning the hair of women and children that had been given in prayer and sacrifice.8 This is where the decision becomes less black and white – when hair is given willingly, to all intents and purposes, but for different or unfortunate reasons. Ron King, L’Oreal Professional Stylist and spokesman says: “Hair that is taken from people…without knowing the reason behind it, I consider to be unethical.” We’re reminded of poor Fantine in the musical and upcoming film, Les Misérables, who shaves her head and sells the hair to pay for her daughter’s care in poverty-stricken times. Hair historian Caroline Cox says: “Working-class women’s hair [has been] used to bedeck the heads of those who are more privileged…for hundreds of years.” Medieval and distasteful it may seem to some, but it does pose a moral dilemma for the consumer. That is, of course, if they have access to the truth about how their extensions were procured in the first place. Aside from a few hair-raising stories in the media, it’s doubtful that salons or their customers – perhaps even the wholesalers – are aware of how freely the extensions they buy are given. The sourcing end of the supply chain can be convoluted and shrouded, making it hard for those seeking answers to find them.

The market remains highly unregulated, and although today’s buyers are asking to know when and how goods are sourced – particularly their food and clothing – there just isn’t the transparency yet to educate consumers about all products in this way.

http://source.ethicalfashionforum.com/digital/all-that-glitters-behind-the-supply-chain-of-hair-extensions Searches for human hair extensions in Britain jumped 160 percent in the 12 months to the end of June, with salons noting an increase in women seeking to emulate the hair of stars such as former "X Factor" judge Cheryl Cole and Pussycat Dolls singer Nicole Scherzinger.

"There's been a huge upswing in hair. The celebrity culture has made hair extensions more popular, and everyone wants hair from India," said Linda Kozlowski, Head of International Business Development and Marketing, at Alibaba.com9 "With an estimated 65 million pounds ($105.9 million) being spent on various types of hair extensions each year, it's no surprise that UK SMEs (small and medium enterprises) in the beauty sector are looking to capitalize on this growing market," she said.

Over half of the searches were for Brazilian hair, and 29 percent for Indian hair, which has been used for decades in the production of wigs, according to one Indian human hair export website.

"It's really driven by things like Facebook and Twitter, tabloids and magazines.

Women are wanting to be more and more glamorous, as a result of this big celebrity culture," said Lucinda Ellery, who has provided hair extensions to a host of celebrities for the past 25 years.

The recession dented some demand, she noted, but this has been offset by a rise in older women seeking more youthful looking hair through the use of hair extensions, she added.

Hair --or the lack of hair -- is also a big issue for male celebrities. England and Manchester United soccer player Wayne Rooney recently posted a photo of himself for followers on social networking site Twitter after undergoing a hair transplant operation.

http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/08/03/us-human-hair-trade-idUSTRE7723U520110803 The trend of ethically sourced beauty products is also on the rise, said Alibaba.com, which has nearly a million users in Britain, and has noted a massive demand globally for ecopackaging, said Kozlowski.

"We've worked very hard to source ethically harvested real hair. There is a big religious reason in India for people to get rid of their hair, they (have it cut off) and give it to the monks and now it's been given off as an economic resource for the country," added Ellery.

A spokeswomen at Reading-based Bonita Hair, which offers training courses in hair extensions and sells human hair wholesale via its website, said they had noticed an uptick in people attending their courses since the end of last year.

"This year has got a lot busier... we're training a lot of girls because a lot of them have their own salons and they have so many people who ask for extensions and they're sick of saying no," she said.

The rise in popularity of extensions is also pushing up the wholesale price of human hair. "In the last 10 years, it's tripled, doubled and tripled again," said Ellery, with human hair replacing synthetic hair in terms of popularity, as women seek more natural looking hair.

So natural, that most celebrities are now reluctant to admit their hair enhancements.

"Celebrities are becoming increasingly shy about what they do to keep themselves glamorous," said Ellery. "They're going more quiet about their additives," she added.10 Louise Bailey, an expert and innovator in applying human hair extensions, she is at the forefront of a fuller follicles industry helping boost revenues in high street salons across the UK. Unofficially the extensions sector is estimated to be worth £65 million with 30 per cent annual growth.

http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/08/03/us-human-hair-trade-idUSTRE7723U520110803 Celebrity endorsement, the luxuriant locks of Cheryl Cole, the quick change styles sported by Victoria Beckham and reality TV stars initially drove popular demand. But now clients are solidly mainstream too, women whose hair is fine, or has thinned because of age, hormone changes, ill health and medicinal side-effects.

Bailey, 35, working at the high profile end of the business, saw both good and bad side of extensions - the positive consumer demand and the shortcomings in existing applications resulting in knots and bald spots - which moved her to develop her own new brand, Extension Professional.

Launched earlier this year the company runs training programmes for hairdressers, using the new application processes Bailey has created “that are kind to hair, quick to apply and use ethically sourced products,” she explains.

The explosive increase in demand got Bailey thinking in 2011 of ways to maximise her talents and address the problems that were starting to surface.

“There was a lack of quality and consistency in the work, regulation had not caught up what was happening on the high street. But that gave me an opportunity to advance techniques and improve training, so customers are properly treated throughout the chain, from correct application and keeping extensions in the best possible condition to their removal,” she says.

Extension Professional’s system is based on Bailey’s cutting and application methods. She explains: “We have cold fusion patented application and a flat bond technology so the extensions do not harm the hair when they are applied, and lie flush against the head.

They are virtually undetectable and a client can sleep comfortably with them in. Extensions have to be removed every three months, but our keratin wrap comes off easily, so again not damaging the hair.”11 http://www.express.co.uk/finance/personalfinance/432006/Growing-with-style-Innovative-hair-extensions-areat-the-cutting-edge Application takes just 75 minutes, a third of the normal time. Bailey sources the human hair from a processor in Italy, who buys from Hindu temples in India, where pilgrims shave off their hair in devotional ceremonies.

She cuts her extensions herself she says because “it’s not just about the length and the humongous WAG look, the shape, body and texture of hair are critical too. The extensions should be not too thick or long. We offer a connecting layer system for those with thinning hair and another for transforming colour without using chemical processes.” Bailey, a seasoned stylist, with a celebrity client list that includes singer Ellie Goulding and X Factor star Stacey Solomon, has also run a successful drinks firm. The nuts and bolts of small firm management she learned then was put to full use when planning the launch of EP.

The training is backed by Habia, the hair industry’s standards body and cost effective partnerships with other like-minded entrepreneurs, sufficient funding, and a multi-channel marketing plan were all carefully plotted in advance.

“I’ve stayed with slow and steady roll out strategy,” says Bailey. “I work from the FOUR hair salon in central London. It is run by four women entrepreneurs, we share skills, services and common approach to enterprise.” RBS’s branch in Romford, Essex, Bailey’s home town, added a £15,000 loan and overdraft facility to the £50,000 of private funding Bailey has invested. The bank’s portion is for trading finance, the most-sought after credit among small firms and the hardest to secure.

“I have a very good relationship with my bank. The money is essential to buy stock so I was pleased when I put forward the plan, the woman manager backed me immediately, it makes such a difference to get that kind of support,” says Bailey.

“My manager understood my goal is to create a franchise operation, repeat business is fundamental part of extensions. Now I’m developing new products for hairdressers on our programme to use.” Turnover is on course for £200,000 in the first year, with 40 salons so far now part of the Extension Professional fold. Prices start at £350.

Mark Coray, president of leading trade body the National Hairdressers’ Federation who owns top salon Coray and Co in Cardiff, applauds Bailey’s initiative. “Hair extensions are not a flash in the pan, anything that is safe for clients, ethically sourced and brings trade to salons is to be welcomed,” he says.12 UK Online stats – hair extension on search engines http://www.express.co.uk/finance/personalfinance/432006/Growing-with-style-Innovative-hair-extensions-areat-the-cutting-edge Source: http://www.google.com/trends/explore?hl=enUS#q=Hair%20extensions&geo=GB&cmpt=q&tz=

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 Brazilian hair hot in Gauteng and western cape and Indian in Kwazulu - Natal In a continent of dramatically contrasting poverty and wealth, hair is a rare common denominator that cuts across class and culture groups in Africa. The black hair business is worth billions worldwide, and the Africa market is slowly picking up as consumers look for the best products.

Good Hair, the 2009 documentary by comedian Chris Rock, spotlighted the business of black hair, particularly the use of relaxers, weaves and hair extensions. Elements of his documentary ring true in South Africa, the dominant market on the continent for hair care products. According to researchers, black women are willing to spend at least double the amount on hair and beauty products that white women do.

According to estimates from Euromonitor International, the Middle East and Africa hair care market alone was valued at $4.2 billion in 2013.14 Zeenat Ebrahim, a senior analyst at Euromonitor, sees huge potential for the hair care market in Africa.

“Multi-national players, for example, in various locations in Africa are increasing their marketing in advertising budgets," Ebrahim explained, "this is really influencing consumer http://www.howtosellhairextensions.com/hair-extensions-outlook-south-africa http://www.voanews.com/content/s-africas-black-hair-businesses-are-thriving/1915963.html choice… the likes of hair conditioning products, these products are once again, increasingly appealing, especially because new product development with extra value is allowing consumers to have affordable and salon-like treatment at home."

Ebrahim said South Africa has the most established and developed market for these premium hair care products, which she says are gaining increased interest from consumers.

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